Rapaport Journal – Royal blue

&#13 &#13 &#13 From Queen Victoria and Princess Diana to the stars of the silver

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From Queen Victoria and Princess Diana to the stars of the silver display, a new e book delves into sapphire stories earlier and present.&#13

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A member of the corundum gemological family, sapphire is next only to diamond in its hardness, which would make it attainable to carve into cameos and intaglios. Its crystals are frequently more substantial than people of a ruby or emerald, meaning the stone can be lower into huge styles for outstanding jewels. And it normally takes place in a selection of hues, from deepest blue, green and grey to yellow, orange, pink and purple, notes gemologist and great-jewellery expert Joanna Hardy in her new e-book, Sapphire: A Celebration of Colour.

Getting tackled emerald and ruby in preceding textbooks, Hardy completes her trilogy of the “big three” gemstones with this informative tome. She put in 10 many years touring the world though producing the trio of publications, most lately visiting sapphire deposits in Madagascar — the major producer of sapphires considering the fact that they had been found there in 1998, she notes.

Considering that antiquity, she writes, “sapphires have been uncovered in Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Myanmar (Burma), Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, Ethiopia and France,” with later on discoveries throughout the 20th century in Kashmir, Australia, and Montana in the US. She commences her guide by conversing about the traders together the famed Silk Road and maritime Silk Route, and ends by discussing mining in Australia’s outback, Myanmar, Kashmir, Madagascar, Montana, Scotland and Sri Lanka. The coloration pics that accompany her narrative supply readers an armchair tour of jewels from some of the best museums and collections globally.

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Matrimony and devotion

Numerous have attributed healing, restorative and protecting powers to sapphires. The gemstone’s most frequent shade, blue, has a lot to do with it, the guide points out. Associations with the sea, the infinite horizon and the sky have linked it to the heavens and to divine electric power, as is evident from sapphire’s use in religious objects, crowns, and ceremonial jewels.

In the language of gemstones, sapphires stand for constancy, points out Hardy. Britain’s Prince Albert intended and commissioned sapphire jewelry for Queen Victoria, which include a brooch he gave her prior to their marriage ceremony.

As a image of royal love and “devotion in matrimony,” the reserve states, sapphire has featured in quite a few royal bridal jewels. In Britain, the record is extensive, beginning in 1923 with the sapphire and diamond ring Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon — afterwards Queen Elizabeth, the queen mom — obtained on her wedding ceremony from foreseeable future King George VI. In 1947, the king gave his daughter, then Princess Elizabeth, a sapphire and diamond necklace and earrings, made circa 1850, for her wedding. In 1963, a matching new sapphire and diamond tiara and bracelet joined individuals parts.

Most likely the most famed British-royal engagement ring in recent several years is the sapphire and diamond cluster ring that Prince Charles gave to then-Girl Diana Spencer in 1981. The ring passed down to her son, Prince William, who gave it in 2010 to his bride-to-be, Catherine Middleton. In 2018, Jack Brooksbank proposed to Princess Eugenie with a padparadscha sapphire ring.

Hollywood stars of the 1930s — America’s solution to royalty — also chose sapphires for their marriage jewellery. Fittingly, the stone of preference tended to be the star sapphire. Jewelers this kind of as Paul Flato, Raymond C. Property, Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, Oscar Heyman & Brothers, and Fulco di Verdura created parts for these silver-display brides, who wore their gems extensive soon after their marriages fizzled. Amongst them was Carole Lombard, who gained a significant star sapphire engagement ring from fellow actor William Powell. Actress Jean Harlow also received a sapphire ring from Powell after his divorce from Lombard. Actress Mary Pickford’s ring from Douglas Fairbanks, Sr., highlighted the 181.82-carat, violet-blue Star of Bombay star sapphire, which was essentially from Sri Lanka. The relationship did not past, but Hardy relates that Pickford held onto the ring, bequeathing it on her loss of life to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC.

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Designer timeline

The reserve explores sapphire-adorned jewelry from some of the most well known luxurious residences, together with Chaumet’s tiaras Cartier’s tutti frutti jewels, this kind of as the present-stopping Collier Hindou it created for heiress Daisy Fellowes a mystery-established sapphire and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels and the Montana sapphires in Tiffany & Co’s creations.

Hardy also talks about the influence of 3 girls on French maisons. Jeanne Boivin ongoing her partner René’s company just after his demise in 1917, employing Suzanne Belperron, writes Hardy. Jeanne Toussaint was inventive director at Cartier Paris in 1933 and continued to oversee fine-jewelry creation for the subsequent four decades. And Renée Puissant, who grew to become artistic director of Van Cleef & Arpels in 1926, labored with designer René Sim Lacaze to develop the firm’s layout legacy.

Famous jewellery collectors wearing their sapphire treasures in the book contain Elizabeth Taylor, Marjorie Merriweather Put up and Duchess of Windsor Wallis Simpson. A glimpse at designers developing 21st-century sapphire jewels rounds out the tome.

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Sapphire: A Celebration of Colour by Joanna Hardy will be revealed by Thames & Hudson in Oct.&#13

Post from the Rapaport Journal – September 2021. To subscribe simply click below.